Read all of this before you do anything. Please feel free to call or write back!
Basically, you turn the offset pots all the way low and the gain pots all the way high.
Then you make sure, in the device driver window, that it is in 8 (or 6) channel mode.
At this point you can set your offsets. Since there is no signal on any channel, the outputs from the correction amp should all be ZERO!
For a quick start, measure the positive offset of the device at one of the lines coming in to the correction amp. It should be about +2.25 for the 6 ch. device and +1.2 for the 8 ch. Set the negative reference voltage to be -1.5 times this value. Measure the negative reference at the outside edge of the board on any one of the 15K resister leads (look for the green stripe on the resisters).
What you want to do is find the lowest voltage channel. This is the one that will take the least amount of negative voltage to correct. With this channel on your meter, set the negative voltage regulator pot to the lowest
positive voltage you can get.
The trim pots for offset will only allow you to remove a positive offset, so all offsets must be positive. You will notice that it drifts a bit. If you tap on the trim pot, and set it again, and again, and again.... it will eventually get fairly stable.
Now you can move from one output to the next, setting each one to zero volts by bringing up the offset pots and taking down the voltage. This is the most exaggerated the offsets will ever be, because the gain pots are full up.
Go to the mixer tab and mute everything but the wave playback. Set it to max. Set the master volume to about 70%.
Use LaserBoy to make the white circle into a 10 second wave.
In LaserBoy and type:
y 10 [Enter] o 3 2 circle [Enter]
Look in ./LaserBoy/wav/
Play the circle in Spider Player in loop mode.
You should see DC voltages on all the color channels and AC voltages on X & Y.
Bring down the gain pots on the color channels to measure +5.00VDC.
The gain on X & Y will determine your scan size. This is where a stacked stereo 100K pot is a good thing to have! If you add that between the outputs of X & Y and your ILDA output connector, you can set the AC voltage on these channels to just about anything and use the stereo pot to set your scanned image size, starting at ZERO.
If you don't have a stereo 100K pot, then set the X & Y gain low and bring them up from zero. Adjust each one to make sure the circle is not an ellipse
If you don't have an O-scope, you will have to use your projector to see if you are clipping. You should set the master volume in the device driver window to the highest it will go before the circle gets flat sides. Do this before you connect the color mod signals to anything. Once you get the proper master volume setting, then you will need to readjust the gains on the color channels to get back to +5.00VDC.
Get yourself some 5.1V zener diodes and connect the cathode to the color output and the anode to GND on each color channel (after you have made all your adjustments). This will make it impossible to go over 5 volts on the color mod signals, no matter what. If a zener drops the voltage a bit too much, put a small resister (>0 ohms) in series with it. If it's not quite enough, try another zener!
James.
